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The Maillard reaction: why browning tastes good

Beginner Kitchen science

The chemical reaction between proteins and sugars that turns seared steak, toast, roasted coffee and bread crust brown and savory.

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How do you do it?

  1. Pat meat and vegetables dry before they hit the pan; surface water has to boil off before browning can start.
  2. Leave space between pieces so steam can escape; a crowded pan simmers food instead of browning it.
  3. Let food sit undisturbed for 2-4 minutes so the surface stays hot long enough to brown.
  4. Add a pinch of baking soda to onions or a little to a dry rub; a less acidic surface browns faster.
  5. Brush pie crusts and rolls with egg or milk; their proteins and sugars brown well in the oven.

Why does it work?

When amino acids (the building blocks of protein) meet certain sugars at high heat, they react, then keep breaking apart and recombining into hundreds of new compounds. Some are brown pigments; many are aromas that read as roasted, nutty, meaty or toasty. The reaction crawls at boiling temperature and speeds up a lot once the surface passes roughly 280-300°F, which can only happen after the water there has evaporated. Alkaline conditions speed it up and acidic ones slow it down. Browning adds flavor; it does not seal in juices.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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