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Bitterness, and how to tame it

Intermediate Kitchen science

Bitterness comes from many compounds in greens, coffee, cocoa and burnt food, and you can soften it with salt, fat, sweetness or cooking.

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How do you do it?

  1. Salt bitter foods like broccoli rabe, radicchio, endive and kale; salt suppresses bitterness better than sugar.
  2. Blanch very bitter greens in salted boiling water for 1-2 minutes; some bitter compounds leach into the water.
  3. Pair bitter salads with something fatty or sweet, like cheese, nuts, fruit or a honey-sweetened dressing.
  4. Cook garlic and spices over moderate heat and pull them when golden; scorched garlic and burnt spices turn harshly bitter.

Why does it work?

Bitter compounds are a varied group, and people have around 25 kinds of bitter taste receptors, an old warning system against plant toxins. How strongly you sense bitterness is partly genetic, which is why one person loves Brussels sprouts and another cannot stand them. Salt interferes with bitter taste signals more strongly than sweetness does, while fat coats the tongue and sugar distracts the brain. Some bitter compounds dissolve into cooking water, and browning can mellow raw harshness. Burning creates new bitter compounds, so scorched food stays bitter no matter what you add.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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