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Butter temperature and your cookies: melted, softened or cold

Intermediate Kitchen science

The same butter gives different cookies depending on its temperature, because it changes how much air and water end up in the dough.

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How do you do it?

  1. Use softened butter, about 65°F, creamed with sugar for cookies that are lighter and cakier.
  2. Use melted and slightly cooled butter for denser, chewier cookies with crackly tops.
  3. Chill dough at least 30 minutes, or overnight, for thicker cookies that spread less and taste deeper.
  4. Use cold, firm butter in shortbread-style or scone-like doughs for sandy, crumbly, flaky textures.

Why does it work?

Butter is about 80-82% fat, 16-18% water and a little milk protein. Softened butter is plastic enough to hold air when beaten with sugar, and those pockets give lift. Melted butter cannot hold air, and its water is free to mix with flour and form more gluten, so cookies come out denser and chewier. Butter that is warm or melted when the cookies go in also spreads sooner before the dough sets, so they bake flatter. Chilled dough stays firm longer in the oven and spreads less, and resting lets flour absorb liquid, which concentrates flavor and improves browning.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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