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Why cookies spread, and how to control it

Intermediate Kitchen science

How much a cookie spreads depends on how fast its fat melts compared with how fast its flour and egg set.

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How do you do it?

  1. Chill scooped dough 30 minutes to overnight for thicker cookies.
  2. Bake on a cool sheet lined with parchment, not a hot or greased one.
  3. For less spread, use part bread flour or a little more flour; weigh it.
  4. For thinner, crisper cookies, use melted butter, more white sugar, or flatten the dough balls.
  5. Check your oven temperature; a cool oven gives fat time to run before the cookie sets.

Why does it work?

Cookie dough starts to flow once its butter melts, at about 90-95°F, and keeps spreading until egg proteins and flour starch set it, somewhere above about 160-180°F. Anything that delays melting or speeds setting gives a thicker cookie. Cold dough, higher-protein flour and more flour all help. Sugar dissolves in the dough's moisture and turns to syrup as it heats, so more sugar, especially white sugar, means more spread. Baking soda weakens the dough's structure and speeds browning, which can encourage spreading. Grease or a warm pan lets the dough slide out before the edges grip and set.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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