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Why cold butter makes flaky pastry

Intermediate Kitchen science

Flaky pastry comes from separate pieces of cold, solid fat in the dough that melt in the oven and leave layers.

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How do you do it?

  1. Keep butter, water and even the flour cold; chill the dough 20-30 minutes whenever it feels soft or greasy.
  2. Leave butter pieces about the size of peas, with some flattened into flakes.
  3. Bake in a hot oven, about 400-425°F, so the butter steams before it soaks in.
  4. Add just enough water for the dough to hold together when squeezed.

Why does it work?

When butter stays cold and solid, rolling the dough flattens it into thin sheets with flour between them. In a hot oven, the water in the butter, roughly 15-18 percent, turns to steam and pushes the layers apart while the melting fat fries the dough around it, so the layers set as separate flakes. If the butter softens and blends in completely, it coats the flour evenly and you get a tender, crumbly, shortbread-like texture instead. Fat also limits gluten by coating flour proteins, which keeps pastry tender; too much water or handling develops gluten and makes it tough and shrinking.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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