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Choosing a pan: cast iron, stainless, nonstick or carbon steel

Beginner Kitchen science

How the metal a pan is made of changes how it heats, holds heat, browns food and releases it.

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How do you do it?

  1. Use nonstick for eggs, pancakes and delicate fish, on low to medium heat, and never preheat it empty.
  2. Use stainless steel when you want browned bits (fond) for a pan sauce; preheat it, then add oil.
  3. Use cast iron or carbon steel for hard searing and cornbread; preheat 5 minutes so the whole pan is hot.
  4. Simmer tomato sauces and wine braises in stainless or enameled pans, not bare cast iron.

Why does it work?

Metals move heat at very different speeds. Copper and aluminum conduct heat quickly and evenly, so good stainless pans hide an aluminum or copper layer inside. Iron and carbon steel conduct slowly and heat unevenly, but they are heavy and store a lot of heat, so the pan stays hot when cold meat lands on it. Seasoning on iron is oil baked into a hard polymer coat that resists sticking. Nonstick coatings release food easily but break down if overheated, usually above about 500°F. Bare iron reacts with acids during long cooking, which can strip seasoning and add a metallic taste.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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