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What sugar does in baking, beyond sweetness

Intermediate Kitchen science

Sugar tenderizes, keeps baked goods moist, helps them rise and brown, and steadies whipped eggs, so cutting it changes far more than sweetness.

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How do you do it?

  1. Cut sugar by no more than about a quarter at first; beyond that, expect drier, tougher, paler results.
  2. Beat sugar into whipped egg whites gradually after soft peaks form; it makes the foam glossy and stable.
  3. Choose brown sugar for moister, chewier cookies; its molasses holds extra water.
  4. Lower the oven temperature or tent with foil if a high-sugar cake browns too fast.

Why does it work?

Sugar loves water. It holds moisture in a cake and keeps it fresh longer, and by tying up water it slows gluten formation and delays when egg proteins and starch set, so the crumb ends up more tender. When creamed with butter, sharp sugar crystals cut tiny air pockets into the fat that leaveners expand later. In meringues, dissolved sugar thickens the liquid around the bubbles, so they pop less. Sugar feeds yeast, and it browns through caramelization and the Maillard reaction. In ice cream and sorbet it lowers the freezing point, keeping them scoopable.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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