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Why some cuts are tender and others tough

Intermediate Kitchen science

Why some cuts are tender and others tough is a cut's tenderness depends on how hard that muscle worked and how much connective tissue it holds, which decides how to cook it.

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How do you do it?

  1. Cook tender cuts (tenderloin, ribeye, strip, pork loin, chicken breast) quickly and stop at medium-rare to medium.
  2. Braise or slow-roast tough cuts (chuck, brisket, shoulder, shank) for hours until a fork slides in easily.
  3. Slice cooked meat against the grain, in thin pieces, to shorten the fibers you chew.
  4. Pick marbled meat when you can; the fat keeps fibers apart and tastes richer.

Why does it work?

Muscles that move the animal all day, such as the shoulder, leg and neck, are full of collagen, a tough connective tissue that wraps the fibers. Muscles along the back do little work and have less of it, so they are naturally tender. Quick cooking tightens collagen and makes it rubbery, so a tough cut grilled to medium is at its chewiest. Held moist at around 160-205°F for hours, collagen slowly melts into gelatin and the meat falls apart. Tender cuts have little collagen to melt, so long cooking only dries out their fibers. Acidic marinades only work on the surface and can turn it mushy.

What are the common mistakes?

Still stuck? Watch someone do it on YouTube.

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